I set the shoe on the Sonotube and let it align itself with the curvature of the tube. Then I held it in place and drilled one of the screw holes. After inserting a screw I tried to get the shoe lined up again with the curvature and drilled the second hole. The first thing I found was that they largest drill bit I have for my Dremel is smaller than the screws I have to hold it in place. The shoe came with screws that would have fit through my hole but they were too short to reach all the way through the tube and allow a nut to be screwed on. So I had to screw the screws through the cardboard to enlarge the holes. This might have caused some drift of either or both of the holes. Peter down at Adorama said to be sure to seal the holes with epoxy and use washers on the inside so I did that. The epoxy wasn't flowing through the holes so I had to drive the screws through it before it set up. This got epoxy in the threads which is likely binding them to the cardboard. And I had to put the nuts on before epoxy in the threads hardened and prevented me from doing that so they might be epoxied to the screws.
And when I started to zero the finder in I found that where it was set for the Mini Mak was way off from where it needs to be for the mortar. I cranked the screws as far as they would go and got it within about 0.5° in altitude and about 1° in azimuth. with the 2", 38mm Orion Q70 finder eyepiece the target object is very close to the field stop so it will be usable but I would like to get it better aligned it I can break the right screw free and drift that hole a little bit.
I made a drift test with the Q70 to see how big its field of view is. I looked up FoVT in Astronomy Hacks and have created a spreadsheet to do the calculations for each of the three methods they describe.
They say that calculating FoVT based on the eyepiece magnification and FoVA is the least accurate method, especially when dealing with inexpensive Chinese eyepieces and telescopes, due to variations in focal length from item to item. My eyepiece is definitely an inexpensive Chinese on and the telescope focal length I am using to calculate the eyepiece magnification is my best guess for a physical measurement without scratching my mirrors so there is definitely slop in there. I come up with FoVT = 3.6°.
Basing the calculations on the eyepiece field stop is supposed to be more accurate so I looked that up on the Orion web site and made my calculations by that method and come up with FoVT = 3.5°. I would imaging that if there are manufacturing variations in the focal length of inexpensive optics the same would hold true for the diameter of the field stop so don't hold this number to be gospel either.
The gold standard for determining FoVT is supposed to be the drift test. It is recommended that the star used for the drift test be as close to the celestial equator as possible. It should also be southing at the time of the test so it is moving horizontally across the sky. Finding something bright enough for me to hop to it in that location didn't seem like an option so I used Jupiter and corrected for the difference in Dec. I also did a half drift test starting with Jupiter in the center of the FoV as nearly as I could judge it. I came up with FoVT = 3.8°.
So I figure my FoVT is somewhere in the 3.6° - 3.65° range. I should perform this test again on a star and do it several times to correct for placement of the target in the center of the FoV.
